Tuscan T-Bone Steak

In Tuscany, a massive T-bone steak is grilled over oak wood and served with nothing but a drizzle of the best olive oil with salt and pepper. We can make do here with our own beef, which is pretty darned good, too, cut to manageable proportions. An oak wood fire takes too long to burn down, so sprinkle your hardwood charcoal or briquette coals with soaked and drained oak chips to give your T-bone authentic Florentine flavor.

Brush both sides of each steak with the olive oil. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, build a charcoal fire in an outdoor grill and let burn until covered with white ash. The coals should be very hot--you should be able to hold your hand at grate level for only 1 to 2 seconds. In a gas grill, preheat on High.

Just before grilling, season the steaks with the salt and pepper. Lightly oil the cooking grate. Place the steaks on the grill and cover. Cook, turning once, until the steaks are well-browned on the exterior and rare within, 6 to 8 minutes. (Tuscans prefer very rare steak, but cook it to your taste.) If you like your steak more well done, move it to the cooler, outer perimeter of the charcoal, not directly over the coals. Turning the steaks once again, continue grilling, covered, for about 3 more minutes for medium-done steaks, and 5 more minutes for well-done. In a gas grill, reduce the heat to medium, and continue grilling for approximately the same time as for charcoal. Serve immediately, with the lemon wedges and a cruet of olive oil for seasoning at the table.